Focus on the commando sole: technical and stylistic progress – In 2021, it became a must in both men’s and women’s wardrobes. It’s on the catwalks, in shop windows and in magazines. Your next-door neighbour probably wears it too. In short, it’s everywhere. What seemed to be strictly functional and technical progress would it not have more to offer on the stylistic level? The essential commando sole is at the heart of our focus.
1. Technical progress
One might think that the commando sole has a military origin. However, it fits well with the image we have of the ranger wearing. Rangers, with nice notched soles so as not to slip.
Once is not custom: it was not the soldiers who were vectors of progress since, until the 1950s, the troops’ boots were at best equipped with simple rubber soles, most often with studded leather soles. The one who changes everything is Vitale Brahmani. In the 1930s, he had a company that made irrigation equipment. When he is not working, he climbs to the top of the peaks.
After an expedition that turned tragic, among other things, because of shoes unsuited to high mountain conditions, Vitale looked into the question of the sole. To improve the grip of shoes, his company, Vibram, decided to use rubber and a particular design: the Carrarmato (1937). Its creation will see the success of teams going to attack K2 (one of the Himalayas mountains at more than 8000 meters). So lays the foundations of the famous commando sole and will be copied, adapted, and diverted to today.
Vibram will be an absolute reference for all manufacturers tackling sports footwear for a long time. In addition, of course, these soles and their descendants will equip the military, always on the lookout for the latest technical progress.
2. The commando sole: – A stylistic progress
Today, many brands manufacture their boots and shoes with the famous commando soles.
The ultimate location of the world of Hip hop of the 80s and 90s: Timberland. Suppose mountaineering has considerably popularized the Carrarmato with aficionados looking for its technical qualities. In that case, the American brand and its yellow boots will take this sole into another dimension. Showing up in rap music videos, paired with Notorious BIG’s Brooklyn, the “sturdy” look is gaining incredible popularity.
Many other players in the workwear shoe will also tackle it with Red Wings in the United States or Grenson in England, this time for a solid but wise look. A kind of gentleman farmer.
One might think that this makes the commando sole an element that stands out for its rusticity. Not at all! In recent years and under the impetus of influential brands, Hip-hop has been entering the world of major luxury brands and taking the famous Carrarmatos created on the Timbs.
Thus Virgil Abloh makes excellent use of it in his collections for Louis Vuitton Homme. Boots like derbies, anything goes. Prada is also changing the Vibram model to adapt to current aesthetics, with very high manufacturing quality. Berluti, the shoemaker par excellence, pays homage to it with models that display their affiliation with mountaineering.
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